Take Pride in Breaking the Rules: Climbing, Shame and the Power of Extra Holds
As Pride Month 2025 ends, let’s talk about the flip side of pride: shame.
Climbing culture is famously supportive and community-driven—but like any strong culture, it can develop unspoken shame-binds. Rules about start-tapes, matching, or “only these holds” give us shared integrity and standards.
But they can also make us feel embarrassed or even “lesser” for breaking them—even when breaking them is the best way to learn.
Why Using Extra Holds Feels Taboo
Using “off-route” holds is like pouring beer into a glass meant for water: it’s clear, visible, and feels “weird” compared to what’s expected or allowed.
But adding extra holds to an inaccessible project is an excellent learning strategy. It lets you:
1. Experience the moves with your body.
2. Test sequences and positions.
3. Confirm route-reading and visualisation.
4. Learn how to create the force internally that the extra hold provided.
Kids do this instinctively because they want to play and learn. Many advanced climbers do it intentionally to break down projects. Yet many of us avoid it out of embarrassment.
That’s culture. It can train us to judge ourselves and subtly shame ourselves out of using the smartest tool available.
Try This: Extra Hold Exposure Training
Here’s a simple, powerful practice:
Use at least one extra hold on every climb in a session.
Don’t focus on “sending”—focus on building the habit of using and learning from the extra hold.
Feel the moves, positions, and transitions with the help of the extra hold.
Get used to experimenting in the presence and the company of any embarrassment or self-consciousness you may feel. It’s ok to feel this way, and you CAN follow through with adding this to your tactic toolbox. Lean into the social discomfort as training in itself.
Bonus challenge: Do it at peak time at a gym. Let others see - as many as possible - this will only make you stronger.
Take Pride in Learning Your Way
This month—and beyond—take pride in breaking the rules when it helps you grow. Own your learning process. Break taboos.
Choose exploration over perfection - because climbing is yours to experience.
